Days 78-80 Andoany, Nosy-be, Madagascar and Sea days

Weather
Sunny, humid, upper 80's

Map

What we did
We spent the day in Madagascar, tendering ashore just outside of Nosy Be (pronounced “bay”). Madagascar is ranked among the poorest countries in the world, though our experience was somewhat sheltered due to the excursion we chose.

After reaching shore, we boarded a small speedboat with the other members of our group, 15 in total, and headed out to a nearby island, Nosy Komba, often called the “Island of Lemurs.” Infrastructure there is minimal: no electricity, no roads, and not even a dock. We stepped straight into the water and walked onto the beach to arrive.

The heat and humidity were intense as we began a walk through a small village along a wide cobblestone path lined with locals selling handmade crafts. Tourism is limited here, and it’s clear that it alone cannot fully support the community. Vendors offered small carved lemurs; two or three for five dollars and magnets for a dollar.

We then visited a lemur sanctuary, where we encountered incredibly friendly black lemurs. The males are slightly smaller with black fur, while the females have brown bodies with striking black-and-white faces. Our guide handed out pieces of banana, and the lemurs eagerly climbed all over us to eat—an unforgettable experience. In addition to the lemurs, we saw pythons, chameleons, geckos, and other lizards. The island is also known for its vanilla production, so we picked up half a kilo to bring home.

From there, we traveled by boat to an even more remote island, Nosy Tanikely meaning “Island of Small Land,” which is about 1.3 square miles in size. Under a shaded pavilion with picnic tables, we were treated to a generous feast that included sliced avocados, samosas, fish (prepared two ways), potatoes with olives, potato salad, coconut rice, lentils, crab, and a variety of fresh fruits for dessert. After lunch, we cooled off with a swim in the crystal-clear waters surrounding the island. Known for its rich biodiversity, it was the perfect spot for snorkeling; Amy came prepared with goggles and enjoyed exploring beneath the surface.

This excursion exceeded our expectations. Visiting such small, remote islands meant we didn’t encounter as much visible poverty as we had anticipated, and with no roads or cars, there was also a notable absence of garbage. It was a beautiful, eye-opening day in a truly unique part of the world.